Clematis
By Ronnie Diaz:Â Pike County Cooperative Extension Master Gardener
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to have a luscious green leafed vine, dotted with a mass of exotic looking large or small flowers, covering a trellis by the side of your house or in the garden? Wonder no more. Clematis might just be the answer for you.
Here in NEPA, you can find a variety of these wonderful climbing plants. Just visit any garden center. The most common way to buy clematis is in two or three gallon containers already grown to one or two feet in height. Personally, this is my favorite choice. In the spring, you can also find pre-packaged bare-root plants in boxes, which are easier to transport and carry – just follow the printed planting instructions. This can be a little tricky because sometimes the bare-rooted plants already are showing signs of growth inside the packaging material, and this growth can easily break off. Damage to the plant won’t necessarily harm it, but it will delay growth.
Clematis is a perennial, which means it goes dormant during the cold season. In spring, the plant will send out new shoots either from the top of the buried plant or from leftover dried parts of your plant. To be successful in growing this vine, you need to follow only a few instructions:
When buying your Clematis, read the label carefully. This information will tell you not only the name and type of plant you are purchasing but also whether to plant it in full or part sun. The label also will tell you the size and color of the blooms and during what part of the year the plant will bloom. This blooming info is critical because it determines when and if to prune your vine for next year’s growth.
Ok. You bought your new clematis. Now what?
It is always best to plant it as soon as possible. If you do need to take some extra time, make sure to keep the potted plant well watered and stored in a protected area with filtered sunlight. The packaged clematis can be stored for a few days in a cool, dark place until planting time. The best planting times are spring, when the ground is still moist, and fall, during the end of September or beginning of October (no fall planting for bare root plants).
When you are ready for planting, find the right spot.
Remember what the label said, sun or part sun. Find a place where the growing tendrils of the vines can have something to grow on. This could be either a free-standing structure like a tall pole covered with mesh, a teepee-like tower or a trellis made from wood, or sweet pea netting against a house or barn wall.
The roots of clematis need to be cool. Regular watering and a good balanced feeding (tomato fertilizer works well) are necessary for healthy plants. Dig a hole one and a half times the width and the depth of the plant container. Cover the bottom with a good rich compost or well-rotted manure. A handful of bone meal mixed with your soil is always a good idea. Add enough topsoil to cover the compost. Now you are really ready to plant.
Carefully remove the container. If you see roots growing round and round the root ball, you need to gore it from top to bottom with a knife and pull out some roots. This will insure that the roots grow into the soil. Place your well-watered clematis in the hole so that about six inches of stem is below the soil line. Carefully tamp down soil around the plant so that there are no more air pockets. The stem of your clematis needs to be ripe (hardened off and woody) before you bury it. If you are concerned about this, leave the final filling of the hole until later in the season. Now attach your stem securely to the support. Since clematis likes to have its roots cool, plant a low shrub in front of it or cover the ground with a well-established groundcover such as Ajuga (Bugleweed). I have a friend who planted her clematis beneath a well-established rhododendron and azalea bush. The clematis has no problem growing through the canopy and is ready to show its flush of blooms after the other bushes are finished with theirs. What a wonderful way to prolong booming season of already established shrubs.
There is one more thing you need to know about your newly planted clematis: how to prune it. One of the most asked questions I hear is, “Should I or shouldn’t I prune my clematis?” This depends on the particular species of clematis that you purchased. First off, any newly planted clematis needs to be cut down the following year to the first pair of new buds. This ensures a well-established plant. After that, let’s simplify and consider two types of clematis:
- Group One: Clematis that flower on last year’s growth in spring and early summer.
- Group Two: Clematis that flower on the current season’s growth in late summer and early autumn.
Plants in Group One can have either large, individual blooms or numerous clusters of small flowers. Because the flower buds are produced the previous year, these plants should only be pruned immediately after flowering. Pruning in fall or winter removes the flower buds, thus removing the potential for bloom.
In fact, Group One plants do not require annual pruning and may actually flower better if left un-pruned for several years. If plants are badly overgrown and are in need of renovation, a severe, late-winter/early spring pruning may help rejuvenate the vine, but that year the blooming will be sacrificed.
Plants in Group Two have a tendency to become bare at the bottom of the vine unless pruned annually in late winter. Cut these plants back nearly to the ground. Leave at least one pair of healthy looking buds on the trunk.
The above pruning techniques are simplified and do not meet the criteria of a serious clematis enthusiast. I would recommend a trip to the library or local bookstore for further information about customized pruning techniques for the individual cultivar you choose.
One of the greatest attributes of clematis is the mass of blooms on such a delicate looking frame. This can at times also be its downfall. If the plant is not secured properly, the stems can be damaged and a fungus can enter the wound. “Clematis Wilt” can occur. It usually happens just as the flowers begin to open. It is important to then remove all affected stems about 3 inches below where the wilted area ends at the bottom of the plant. New shoots will soon grow.
Another culprit could affect the appearance of your lovely clematis vine: mildew. It is seldom a problem except late in the season and not a problem at all if there is good air circulation. In its earlier stages, mildew can be treated with readily available fungicides.
As you see, not many pests bother this vigorous climber. So enjoy your purchase and watch it grow and enhance your garden for many years to come.
© Copyright 2010 Connections Magazine
